Centering a rearend in a stock supspension Chevelle 1968
 

Is there a way to center not runing stock runing s/st like to keep car on stock side will aftermarket contral arms help thanks greg:confused:

Re: Centering a rearend in a stock supspension Chevelle 1968
 

i have a 67 with similar problems. i went to my painters shop last night and they were just puttng the finishing touches on a 68 impala rolling chassis. i noticed there was a pan-hard bar across the back of the diff housing. i am thinking i will make a similar bar that will attch to my LMP diff cover stud.

Ian

Re: Centering a rearend in a stock supspension Chevelle 1968
 

Been racing A bodies for 35 years.Never had any problems with" centering the rear end".Its self centering as far as i know.Just bolt it in. Been using a H and R Parts n stuff rear sway bar fo the last couple years.Will make your car leave nice and straight.Any other ? Pm me.

Re: Centering a rearend in a stock supspension Chevelle 1968
 

Are the BB cars offset a little compaired to the SB cars???

Re: Centering a rearend in a stock supspension Chevelle 1968
 

if you have or are planning of getting adjustable upper control arms ,you will be able to center the rear in the body of the car gmonde

Re: Centering a rearend in a stock supspension Chevelle 1968
 

nope

i've had a LOT of chevelles all the rear end housings are the same from big blocks to 6 cyl as far as offset
64-67 were one width and 68-72 are 1 1/2" wider... but they all had a centered pinion

Re: Centering a rearend in a stock supspension Chevelle 1968
 

but watch your pinion angle

Re: Centering a rearend in a stock supspension Chevelle 1968
 

The 65-70 full size cars have a panhard bar because the lower trailing arms angle in very little and the uppers don't, at all.

Re: Centering a rearend in a stock supspension Chevelle 1968
 

Tom, the pinion in a 12 bolt is offset to the right approx. 1 inch..That's how the axles end up the same length.

Re: Centering a rearend in a stock supspension Chevelle 1968
 

but they're the same offset between 6's and v-8's
you're right about the pinion not being centered (i'm too used to ferd 9"'s)

Re: Centering a rearend in a stock supspension Chevelle 1968
 

That's what adjustable lower control arms are for..........

Re: Centering a rearend in a stock supspension Chevelle 1968
 

i run 30" tall rubber (295/60/15). i have seen where most 66/67 chevelles not only have the rear end shifted to one side (about 1/2 to 3/4") but also have the rear forward on the passenger side about 1/4 to 3/8". i have trimmed the wheel wells to only have 3/8 clearance and dont seem to have any issues with rubbing unless i go to quick around a corner (side wall rubbing - inside left and outter right...only when turning right).

As far as using the adjustable lowers to move the rear end. i would only use the adjustment in the lowers to align the rear end so the car tracks perfect, then use the adjustability with the length to center the tires nicely. then adjust the tops to match, set your pinion angle and i have added a hotchkis 1 3/8 anti sway bar to the rear. i do not use the rubber mounted bars that attached to the control arms, i use tie rods, mounted on the inside of the ends of the sway bar that mount straight up to tabs whelded to the bottom of the upper control arm crossmember. i add 1/2 to one turn of pre load raising the right side of the car. this has made the car launch straight without holding the steering wheel to the 330! now it was only a I/CM running 1.38 60's and 11.05/ 119 but it worked for me.

if you plan on using the adjustments in the lower control arms to center the wheels in the wheel wells, the use the upper to adjust pinion angle and tracking, i figure you will be creating a bind.

Ian

Re: Centering a rearend in a stock supspension Chevelle 1968
 

Just a reminder, adjustable lower control arms are not legal in Stock Eliminator. Adjustable uppers are allowed.

Re: Centering a rearend in a stock supspension Chevelle 1968
 

Using a panhard bar is a good way to bind the suspention up on an A/G body. I have had a few A bodys over the years....still have 4 currently and all I have done is trim the inside quarter panel the small amount that the rear is shifted over and done. If they still rub or touch get a hammer and beat some clearance into it....or come to the conclusion that the tire is too big and get some smaller ones. 10 pounds doesnt always fit in a 5 pound bag. My 79 wagon has had 295 50 15's slammed with moroso coils in the rear and 28x12.50 MT ET Streets with no issues at all....no extra bars no nothing. If you push on the quarter panel of the car and the rim/rear end doesnt move with the body or "floats" side to side the control arms are garbage. With solid bushings or good urethane bushings there should be absolutely no rear end movement...peried. And using a radial street tire or radial slick will cut down on tire movement and growth.