jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

has anyone had any problem breaking the jerico shift arm ecentric that actuates the 3-4 shift fork ,, we have the shifter stops inplace ,, we are on the second one ecentric ,,,the bore in the trans case for the ecentric is not oblonged or enlarged ,,,the shift fork checks out good(not bent or distorted) this a new issue that surfaced and have many passes on the tranny with before with no issues ,the only change is the longer shifter dont know if the quality of parts is the issue please chime thanks gmonde

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

You need to talk to Jimmy Bridges in Nashville TN.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I have probably 500 runs on my Jerico with no issues. Haven't heard anybody else with the same issues. I use the long shifter as well.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

What model Jerico is it? Is it a DR4 or a DR4-4? i would take the 3-4 shift fork out and make sure that the groove that fits in the shift arm is not worn. That makes it hard to stay in adjustment. Also, the shift rails can be worn. It basically can be in one gear part way and you happen tp be strong enough and have enough leverage to break it, especially if you have a long shifter and long shift arms. I would suggest taking the top off with the shifter on and running it through the gears on the bench before you put it back in the car.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

we did bench test with the trans before going back in the car,its dr4 wide gear, full case with just the top cover,the trans is real good ,shift rails are not worn ,, even did a car on the stands and ran it thru the gears with no issues ,,,thanks for the reply gmonde

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I had debris between 3-4 slider and hub and broke this link. Bought new slider, hub and link. New link had more material around rectangular hole. New slider had also more clearance on hub, than old one. I have DR4 from 1999 and 10 finger dog rings.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

We have broken two of them. The first one was only after about 20 runs on the new trans. We figured it was something freak. So we replaced the arm and bought a spare. One year later in valdosta we had the same thing happen, this time when we looked closer it looked like a casting problem. It snapped the arm off smooth with the side of the trans. The shifting linkage was dragging on the ground. We replaced the arm and have gone on with things. That has been several years and many runs ago. We to have a long shifter on it. I hope it was just a freak thing that happened to you. Good luck.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

Did you carefully adjust the shifter stops?

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

You're not alone gmonde. We have been fighting this problem for 3 years now. It was bad enough at one time that we had to bring extra shift levers to the track just to make it through a race. After installing a new one (3/4), it would immediately start twisting and eventually break. When we removed the nut and slid the lever off, the internal hole would be rounded out. Lever was tight, but still moved around. We been through every test imaginable and haven't found a cause. These are the NASCAR hardened, long shift levers. Long shifter, as well. Everything is adjusted properly. Similar situation. We've run the same Jerico for YEARS without fail, then all of a sudden, BOOM, problems around every corner! The one variable you might check is that your bellhousing is indexed properly. If the transmission is misaligned, it will put too much stress on the main shaft and shift forks (and gears), causing the need to use too much force when shifting. We should be out testing in the next couple of weeks. If we figure something out, I'll post it here. Might be time for a Liberty. ;)

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I've broke one in the last 10 years. When mine broke my stop had loosened up and was not stopping the shifter, the slider/fork/arm was. After adjusting it on the bench with the cover off and seeing what its doing in there I've not had a problem since. But I believe the key is to set the stops with the cover off so you can see what you're doing. I set mine to where it leaves about .030" of play before "bottoming out" and let the dog ring suck the slider in the rest of the way. Haven't had a problem since. Also make sure your shifter rods are running as parallel as possible. Hope this helps

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

i have to ask ,,what lenght shifter (long has a short and long version)and what lenght fork arms are you guys running ???i am thinking the both long shifter and fork arms are creating to much leverage for the ecentric to handle ,,also double checked the adjustment
and mentioned previously the fork slides work perfect as well as the sliding 3-4 dog ring

thanks for your replys ,, still investigating gmonde

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

the levers are not breaking its the ecentric that actuates the 3-4 fork thats shearing off ,,the bell housing was indexed thanks for your reply gmonde

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I would call jerico and talk to Scott. He has helped me figure out problems more than once.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I installed my Long shifter last night and got the rods on when I remembered this thread...this sounds to me like a dumb question, but where are the stops? I don't see anything on the shifter that looks adjustable other than the heims on the rods. I don't want to take this thing to the track for the first time and bust the trans!

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I have 2 Jericos with Long V Gate shifters (NON pistol grip), and if my shifters have any stops, I`ve never seen them.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I run the Mr. Gasket vertical gate, aka Hurst V Gate 2. It has a bolt-on set of stops. For the price, the Long darn sure ought to have stops. Apparently it does:

Designed exclusively for G-Force G-101 clutchless transmission.

Allows transmission to be rotated 90¡ for increased ground clearance.

Supplied with stainless steel tube rods and Heim-end linkage for all applications.

Push-pull design virtually eliminates missed shifts.

External shift stops prevent overshifting which can result in transmission damage.

http://longshifters.com/shifter_4_vj1000.asp

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

Like Rory's my Long shifter for the Jerico has no stops either. Brian

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

Is anybody doing the burnout in 3rd gear?

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

Jerico says not to burnout in 3rd; it is the weakest gear due to being against the split between mainshaft and input gear.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

thats funny, just about every stickshift i know does them in 3rd....

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

You know I've heard this before... I don't know if you have to tell them you want stops when you order the shifter or what. But I wouldn't use one without. Call Long and tell them you want stops on your shifter and see what they say. They might tell you to send your old one in and $100 with it for the upgraded shifter. I don't know but I wouldn't go banging gears without shifter stops or you are just asking for problems.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

For what its worth, neither of my Long shifters have any stops, the Jerico in my 10.0ET bracket car has been in there for 12 years, and in that time, the only part of the trans I have ever broke was 3rd gear (once). The other Jerico has been in my Stocker Mustang for 6 years, and has hurt nothing. I`m not saying that I don`t think shifter sstops are a good idea, but not having them hasn`t caused me any issues.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I started doing burnouts in 2nd gear a couple of years ago after a problem with 3rd lasting 50-60 runs and breaking. 3rd gear lasts a lot longer now. I put 300+ runs on my jerico last year.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I heard about this on another forum and it had me worried as I always used third in my toploader so I asked Jerico and I got third gear is fine for the burnout answer.

I am just a bracket racer but I don't believe second would be enough tire speed and I think my soft loc would not be happy with fourth?

Maybe some others can chime in as this is a great subject. Brian

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I've always done my burnout in 3rd and use a 3-step which is also supposed to be a no-no. That was in both Stock & SS/H. I think the wheel speed will be too slow using 2nd gear for a burnout.
I've been racing since 1998 on the same Jerico trans. I have changed ratio's a few times (even 3rd gear) and I've never seen one problem inside the case. True, my racing is inconsistant from year to year but when I am racing, it's hundreds of runs in a year.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I used to do my burnout in 2nd but there was not enough tire speed so I am going with third. Scott at Jerico said it would be OK and I know someone who has done it for years and has never had problems.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

No stops on my Long Shifter and 3rd gear burnouts with the Jerico. Neither has been a problem in 7 seasons of use. Clutch is another story if you don't have enough base or RPM to lock it up in the box.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

Yeah I know some or now most don't. I just don't have that kind of luck so I try to take as much precautions as possible on things.

As far as the third gear burnouts. I think as long as you don't let the tires grab and put a lot of stress on everything it should help. Its the same principle with trying to keep excessive heat out of the clutch. As the car walks out of the water stab the clutch before the tires really grab. I know its easier said than does every time but its probably the best way to keep third gear and the clutch happy. Just my .02

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I typically do a 3rd gear burnout, but i feel 3rd is the weakest link and if you are on the edge as far as what a jerico can handle, it can be a problem. Iguess I felt that way since the main and the input come together there and there are no handcuffs or additional support. When we ran ssbs with a 3000lb car and a 316, 3rd was the one we would break. Clutches are better now, so maybe not an issue. In the stockers, I don't see an issue with it. When the track is really hot anyway and i am just cleaning the tires off, Iwill use 2nd gear at times for a burnout. The biggest problem i have seen over the years is from racers shifting a jerico in the waterbox. Ihave purchesed a half dozen basket cases from racers that thought this was a good process and the trans split in half. I would say pick a gear and make sure the rpm is matched to the clutch to shock the tires enough so you don't slip the clutch in the burnout process.

As far as the shift arm and shifter. Irun a stock length long shifter and the long shifter arms. I think running the long nascar type shifter arms and the "long" (2 inches taller) long shifter could be the issue. Iwould try going to stock length shift arms. You will have plenty of leverage with either the 2 inch taller shifter or the longer nascar type shift arms. It would be an easy test and inexpensive.

Ihave had probably a dozen different jericos. I only had one shifter with stops on it. It might be a good idea, but with a good internal shift rail trans, not necessary if you have it set up right. I have had a gforce 5 speed and it had shift stops on it.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I think the way a Long shifter works means no stops are required. If you look at the mechanism the pin rolls through the gates and can only go so far until it hits the end. That is your stop. As long as the shift rods are adjusted correctly it shouldn't over stress the trans.

I bought my trans and shifter together and it was already setup and I haven't touched it in 8 years. I leave the rods on the shifter and unbolt the arms from the trans when it comes out so the rod adjustment never changes. The lever breakage sounds like a shift rod is out of adjustment to me.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

Brad Zaskowski has broken 3rd in his Jerico 5 times, he reported on his Facebook page, after he lost in the 5th round at Joliet, due to a broken third gear ( he has an in-car video of it breaking) Charlie Westcott told him not to burnout in 3rd, it is the least supported area of a Jerico 4-speed. Oh, and Charlie said to do burnouts in 4th gear.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I suspect those that have excessive base and / or counterweight are prone to breakage at any point on the track, even on the burnout. Of corse "excessive" is a matter of opinion, but the more pressures that are applied, the harder it is on everything.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

The only thing I've ever broke in a jerico is 3rd gear also. Must be the weak link on them. I also do a 3rd gear burnout. Its one hell of trans though, the torture we put them through lol.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

If anyone has ever seen Charlie do his burnout, he shifts 1-4 in the box. check out any of his in car vids.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

You can do that with a clutchless.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

He's also using the Jerico Hybrid 4 Speed... not the standard DR4/CL4 trans

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

just an update on the ecentric breakage:: we had the trans apart to the point to change out the broken ecentric ,,after the second breakage total tear down was induced and the third gear bushing was destroyed dean cook found ,replaced third gear and three four shift syncros,,going down the track at this point gmonde

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

This is exactly what happened to me yesterday, do you believe it was a casting problem?

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

Bobby, when you nave it apart, make sure that the shift fork didn't bend. It is something the happens mainly with the billet 3-4 fork. Also, on tnat fork, look at the machined groove that the arm goes in. If it has a dent in in, you will have an impossible time getting the shifter adjusted properly. Scott at Jerico says these can be repaired by welding it up and re machining the groove.
I had a couple that had done this after many years of service. It was impossible to get the correct gear engagement. It would be too deep in one dog and barely catching the other.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

Bobby, in our case yes it was a casting problem. You could see the impurity in the casting at point of failure. We called Jerico and told them what we saw. They were curious and we sent them the parts back for them to see. They said at the time they believed that it was a "batch" that could have been bad. We run a three speed (265ci). So we do our burnout in 2nd gear so to break the 3/4 arm was do to stress during the run not during our burn out. There is a definate problem in this area. We use the 1-2-4 gears. We also had the clutch very soft no counterweights. I am sure that a clutchless trans would be different, due to the design of the sliders. I think what Joe said is correct but in ours it had so little runs it was different.

Robert