new slicks
Thinkin its time to get a new set of rubber for my bird...since im wanting to build the stocker combo for it, i might as well try a set of radials(9x30)...
Wondering will they work ok on 8'' wheels that i have? They are welds. Tubeless or no? Also, will they work ok even if i dont have trick springs in the front end to help with transfer? I will eventually have some springs in it, but it may be awhile. Are the Hoosiers the recommended tires? Part No.? Thanks for your replies, Brent the car does 1.50 60fts now...has done a string of 1.48-1.49s |
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If you have 8's, they will but they'd be better on 10's. Cool ride ! Hoosier in my opinion.
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agree on the 10" wheels as well Hoosier. No tubes.
As to will they work? Well that depends how well the chassis/suspension works now. If your car doesn't hook consistently now on marginal starting lines, work on it until it does, otherwise you're wasting your time and money. Quote:
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You didn't mention weight in the trunk. Most stickers have considerable weight back there; high and way back. That helps considerably with consistancy and even ET. I'd suggest you get it to work on a set of bias slicks first. Once your there, it will only get better with radials.
Don't forget 9" wide wheels are also an option. |
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That said, this car ain't a stocker yet;), rather a bracket car and you'd have a hard time convincing most bracket racers that they need to add weight to hook. While it will work, it's not need IF the chassis/suspension is setup correctly evident by my Chevelle which carried no additional weight/ballast, who's front to rear bias is 59%/41% of it's 3880lbs., runs on Hoosier radial slicks and will hook in a car wash. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbKYio6OvKM |
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Front shocks and bushings are where you should be paying your attention to.........
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The radials wear out much faster than bias. Some stocker drivers only run the radials when needed.
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Ran Hoosier's 30 x 10.5 radial slicks on my nearly 2 ton Chevelle that 60 footed low 1.30's and a best of 1.28, for 8 seasons, going through at least 3 sets a season.
Logged a minimum of 75 passes on each set before swapping them out for a new set without any indication the tire was going away with the 60 foots varying thousanths from pass to pass on any given day. Then these same tires went on a lighter weight car and saw another 75 passes minimum before they were retired. |
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THAT SAID...He said he would like to move towards the car being in Stock Eliminator THAT SAID...I offered friendly advice along the lines of his question. THAT SAID...I have more experience than you do in the Class. THAT SAID...Your Chevelle has an entirely different suspension than the Firebird in question and was not a even a Class car as the OP was asking about. THAT SAID...He didn't ask about your OLD Chevelle. I'll bet he already knows about it! THAT SAID...We get it. You don't! THAT SAID...Go back to the mirror and repeat..."I'm wonderful, I'm special, and by-goly. I want the world to know" |
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Change the front springs, they are cheap and easy. Then put the CO6 Hoosier 30/9 92.5 on it and run it,then start working on the chasis for your stock eliminator endeavor.
Start out with 20-22 lbs of PSI. |
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thanks everyone for replies... |
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Once you get it working good, go test and go up 2 psi at a time till it spins. You will pick up et From 22 psi on, I would not be surprised to see you end up running around 26 psi.
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I know guys that save the radials only for the heads up or faster qualifying runs. Now...since I run a stick, radials are presently not a viable option. My opinion here is based on all those slush box racers around me. |
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why? anybody ever try it? |
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for what you have now...a bracket car and what you are doing now...bracket racing, stay with bias slicks.
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Back to your mirror. I have to get back to work. |
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thanks |
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I have not and most probably will never travel enough to warrant those money pits. Not that I wouldn't take one...got one for me? |
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If you can borrow or buy a run of different tires and different wheels. The best bias tire I think is the Goodyear 1909 D-5 for recovery and inital hook. Any of the D-4 compound radial Goodyears are very good.
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Guys, This was all good, I mean the info on tires,especially the radials
and everyones humor,even though I'm sure some of the contributors werent smiling when they were composing.But I thought it was all good. Be nice, remember we all love the same sport.:) ed |
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Hey Guys... i decided to go with Pheonix 9x30 bias, like i had on it before...
They are super consistent and dont take hardly a burnout to hook. My car, with a little 4.10 gear and trw/solid lifter/home port iron heads, always did 1.50 60ft times, constistantly. One day, in good air, with my brother driving, (he was about 50-60lbs lighter than me at the time... went a string of 60fts from 1.482 to 1.491 (seven passes). I ordered them today!! THanks for all the banter and advice! I was mainly wondering if radials would work without trick springs in the front... when i get springs in it, im sure the rear is working good enough to try the radials....also, a 400 with more rear gear and higher stall, will help the situation :) |
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smart decision staying with bias slicks for your bracket car. Smarter yet had you chosen Hoosier.
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I may never see the #'s that some of the E/SA cars are runnin' nowadays, but , i still gonna give it a try in the near future. Gotta do it, life is short!! :) |
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Tried them all on my Chevelle, hated the Phoenix slicks mainly cause they were flat in 48 hours. You must be running tubes and screws.;)
Hoosier has not only been the quickest tire but they don't leak air! Don't run tubes and screws and never will. |
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Great car! We run radials with 8" rims, and it has worked out well for us. |
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Now that you have the new slicks, focus your attention to the front suspension. There's Et waiting for you. ;)
New control arm bushings (Energy or better) eliminate the bushing being part of the spring like bonded factory bushings. The arms must fall under their own weight. Get rid of the stock or jobber ball joints, replace with Afco low friction ball joints. I couldn't believe the difference there. (again, removing bind and friction) Get the trick front springs, or better yet, weigh the car on 4 corner scales and talk to Afco (these guys might have a better company to deal with for drag coil springs) to get a proper rated spring for your car. (I run the Moroso trick springs, had to cut a coil, then cut a further 1.5 coils to get my car to ride height over the years) Travel is very important for small tire cars, and from what I understand, even moreso with radials. I have over 5 inches of front end travel, I can top out the suspension by pulling up on the fender lip, and when I let go it settles back down to ride height, leaving about an inch between the lower control arm and the compression bump stop. Last time out, the 60' timers weren't functioning, but the final 3 rounds: 6.655, 6.653, 6.649, so the 60's might have been fairly close. :D |
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Hopefully you find some ET in the work you put into the front end, good luck and glad to help.
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