FORD 9"info
 

gonna install one in my sbc super/pro car w/trans break. i can aquire a factory iron senter section that has the extra reinforsement ribs on it. is that going to get the job done? can't afford a new one from the aftermarket. thankyou for any input...

Re: FORD 9"info
 

Make sure you inspect the area around the rear pinion support bearing to make sure no one has ground this area for gear clearence. If that's OK you will be fine I have a freind that's had one in his car for over 10 years a 9 second car with brake. Joe

Re: FORD 9"info
 

thankyou. i'm pretty sure it's an unmolested unit with factory 3'55 gears....but i'll still check for what u suggested. upon dissassembly i can dry mag test it too...

Re: FORD 9"info
 

Make sure it is nodular iron. Except for very early ones, they will have a big N in a square recess between ribs, just above the pinion support hole (visible from the outside).

Re: FORD 9"info
 

If it's not the nodular, then check the place Joe told ya about. Look for a crack, if none keep an eye on it during winter maintenance. Trans-break's are hard on stock 9" rears.

Re: FORD 9"info
 

in the long run is it better then to just save and spring for an aftermarket unit? i don't want to chance damaging the mosier housing...

Re: FORD 9"info
 

Not all ribbed center sections are nodular. The early WAR casings were double ribbed but were not nodular and are the weakest of all casings. They are called WAR casings because the paert number starts with WAR. Stay away from those. They are weaker than the regular one ribb grey iron cases.

The Nodular cases were double ribbed and some (not all) will have an N in the center over the pinion. You have to do some research on the web and get the part numbers so you"ll know if one that you are interested in is nodular or not. Some had the N in the center but the caps did not meaning that it had non nodular caps. Try to find one that you know is nodular and the caps also have the small n on them.

You might look into an aftermarket case on ebay cause the factory N casess are sometimes priced higher than an aftermarket case. George

Re: FORD 9"info
 

Just bring it over to Richard's and hell weld you a brace.lol Claude

Re: FORD 9"info
 

Early 1964 T-Bolt cases were nodular without the N and had nodular cap without a small n on each cap most mid year till about 1978 had nodular caps toward the end of production early 1980 when the Flat Rock Casting Plant closed they regular gray Iron.

Re: FORD 9"info
 

HRW is reportedly the strongest nodular case, at $329 iirc it is cheap insurance. I got one from Quick Performance several years ago.

Re: FORD 9"info
 

If I'm not mistaken Hot Rod Wheel (HRW) went out of business several years ago along with Canton heads (sister company). The same cases are now sold by Moser. I'm not sure if Moser makes 'em or not.

The post concerning WAR cases is right on. If you aren't sure you have a nodular case I'd pass on it and get something aftermarket.

Re: FORD 9"info
 

also note this. some cases use a 3.06 od side bearing and some use 2.89 od side bearings. i figure its a toss up. 289 have a thicker cap witha smaller bearing and vise versa.. either cap will use the 31 spline axle. with the correct side bearing. i recommend taping the main bolt holes as deep as you can and using either studs or as long a grade 8 bolt as you can [even to cutting an 8 to length. you should also have the bolt head seats spot milled to be square. the factory seats are not real good and the factory cap bolts are way short. tap the pinon support bolts as deep as you can and use longer grade 8 bolts with grade 8 washers there also. the cast iron Daytona support is the first best step. next is the bigger bearing supports. and there are several to go with choice wise. some use a big tapper roller some use a ball bearing, do some checking on your own as to what you want. but use something other than the factory, unless you are bucks down.
rod in AZ

Re: FORD 9"info
 

thank you everyone for your help. what a wealth of knowledge on this site!