1957 150
I,ve figured that a ,57 150 model at 220h.p. can be run in N/s but my question is what trans and rear end would be allowed in this car?
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Re: 1957 150
I would use the 265 motor............
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Could not a metric 200 3-speed be used, as Turboglide (a 3-speed automatic per the "Captain" rule) was available with V8s (not sure if Turboglide was available on all models with V8's)????
If it's legal, it could possibly be an advantage over a Powerglide.... |
Re: 1957 150
I know the Turboglide was available with the 220 HP.
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I guess what I was getting at is can later model trans & rear ends be legally used with a ,57?
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Another thing-what is the 'captain rule"?
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The captain rule as I understand it, all 1958? to 1963 sbc that came with the turbo glide can use the T200 or T350. But, with the 57, the 220hp is the best combo. We run a 3sp manual in SS and it is the one hold up (Now we can run a 4spd) but not in stock. I would run the powerglide combo with a 12bolt. You will have more cars to run in N/SA vs N/S. With that said the 3sp manual with a Jerico (Got one) is a good reliable combo. So you just make a choice on what you rather run? Two pedals or three?
Robert P.S. VERY COOL CAR! |
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Re: 1957 150
66 Impalla rear will fit the 150 nicely,its within 3/8" of stock width.
Just weld on the spring pads. I've got a '57 150 in the shop right now with this rear, altho it's got a LS 3 Vette engine in front of it! Just keep in mind 12 bolt gear ratio availability for those little motors. 10 bolt rears have a better availability of very low ratios, and will certainly hold up behind a 265 or 283. |
Re: 1957 150
Here's a new twist - since they allow a Metric 200 via the "Jack McCarthy" rule should they allow a 4 speed in this car because it came with a 3 speed with overdrive ?
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Jack; that's why I love this site-somebody always thinkin'- I'll talk to Cal method more about this idea at next weeks divisional. thanks everyone for all their input!
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One more thing-can the stock rear be beefed up enough to handle it.
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Yes,the 265 was only available in a two barrel. Same # 3731548 block but smaller bore.
No they should not allow 4 speeds(manual) in stock. Blasphemy I say! Besides you have to do some real hanky panky to make the shifter clear the original bench seat. Whats next bucket seats in stock. The stock 10 bolt rearend would not be a good choice. They are very weak and I doubt if pro gears are even available anymore. They only came as low as 6.17 and had 6 teeth on the pinion. After a couple of passes they end up with zero. I believe the yoke is a 1310 too. My choice would be a Mark William's 12 bolt with as low as gear ratio possible and big wheel studs. Transmission would be a Jerico DR-4 (although they no longer sell them new) with a 3.08 first,2.10 second & 1:1 third. G-Force would also work. You can underdrive third on them. Allan |
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http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...tchedSeats.jpg |
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Yes I suppose you are right on that one. I guess I need to not be so rigid in my ways as I am quite pleased that I now that have a Jerico and not that old pro-shifted T-16 or the toploader. Hopefully I can put an end to all those granny shifting jokes and maybe even pick up a bit. One of "my" demands when I got the Jerico is that they move the Long shifter far enough ahead to clear my stock seat. Scott did just that for me, not something they have ever been asked for before. It now sits 17" from the front of the transmission. I remember that old Hurst horseshoe handle where the shifter was well under the seat. Allan |
Re: 1957 150
i tried to get a 6 speed for the overdrive cars but they would not even discuss it (it has SS issues) but in reality you can let out the clutch and move forward in 6 different ratios enclosed inside the factory case.
and the turboglide was a 3 speed (has two planetaries) so i just got it recognized. for 57-61 some cars not available 6cyl and high HP 348-409. captain... 57 would be cool ! intake & carb sucks though we do not get 459 and smaller carb |
Re: 1957 150
I would think the rear could live " beefed" for an automatic...Of course the 12-bolt would be stronger...and has a better list of parts available. But if you're "gung-ho" on "flogging" that 10-bolt...you'd have to work around some disadvantages...One is I don't think anybody made "Pro" Gears for this application EVER...so I would suggest "prepping" the available gear sets as best you can...de-burring, heat-treating, or whatever "current" metal process is suggested for stress-relieving today. Another problem with the "old" gears is ratio selection is a bit weak as they jump from 5.57 to 6.17 while the 12-bolt has 5.57/5.86/6.00, and 6.14 ratios...a better selection to "fine-tune" your combo with. Yes, the pinion is small on the 10-bolt 6.17 ring & pinion as mentioned before...a definate liability! BUT your combo might not require such a "stout" ratio depending on what you will run for tire size, trans ratio, etc....Another problem with the early rear end is I don't think anybody made a SPOOL for it although it could be "custom-made"...check out "Aubrey's " site the guy in Canada with the 409 car. I think he's running the 10-bolt in that car still....although a LOT of work to make it live. The GM "Arma-Steel" posi unit is pretty strong BUT needs help with NEW heat-treated FINE-SPLINED spider gears (for the custom axles), and other mods. Unless you have one of these NOW, they could be a bit pricey at swap meets today...I would also consider steel differential carrier "caps" (or reinforcing straps for the stock caps), larger grade-8 bolts, etc. All of these mods were pretty much "standard-issue" for racers running this rear-end back in the day...although today's horsepower levels, better tires, and better track prep should be factored in the decision...I would try and contact Aubrey...or maybe Tom's Differentials for more input on your situation....Good Luck!
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Re: 1957 150
Use 12 blt. only GM you can get pro gear for,sure you could probaly modify old 10 bolt stump to work,but would cost more than 12 bolt by time you custom made what you would need.
Allan was 3,08,2.10 to 1.1 what you meant to put on ratios? Can a 2.10 to 1.1 gear change be made without killing engine? Did you say Granny shift jokes? If your Granny is offended by the term"Granny Shift",You might be a stick racer. Please don't tell me you Granny shifted,even us KY. hillbilly's don't do that.it's a disgrace to stick racers everywhere,if I had witnessed such a unethical thing I would have ripped your shifter out with my bare hands.LOL just joking around but seriously don't ley it happen againLOL Mike Taylor3601 |
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Mike,I think you are right the transmission 2-3 drop from 2.10 to 1.1 would probably be too steep. Way back I had 2.86/1.71/1 and it was bad enough. Some guys used to underdrive third gear but I had no choice. Unfortunately the granny shifting was no joke. I heard it myself on video. I was not letting my foot off the gas either but it was very noticeable in the 1-2 shift. So after the good natured jokes and advice the pro-shifted toploader w/ super shifter is gone and the Jerico w/ Long shifter is in.Can't wait to try it. But if that type of shifting behavior persists I may have to let someone else drive. Allan |
Re: 1957 150
Softer "modern" clutch set-up may help extend rear-end life in 10-bolt over what your brother experienced...but if he builds stick car...ONLY a 12-bolt should be used in the '57.
Your brother should have used a Dana in the conditions you mentioned! IMHO...the '57 150 being not that heavy, and the smaller carb(s) limiting rpm a bit (depending on which combo he ends up with ), the gear ratio wouldn't have to be that "steep", and tire diameter/gear would be sorted out in testing. If considering to keep the car original and running AUTO TRANS, I still think the early 10-bolt has a chance but to be practical...you'd have to be able to do most of the work yourself . Mike T. makes some good points too..... |
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The gear ratio in my combination which is the 265 single four barrel needs to be no less than 6.20 with some apparently running as low as 7.17. Allan |
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Buick had a very similar transmission called "Triple Turbine Dynaflow," during the same period of time. |
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I raced my '57 J/S car for a few seasons. one time I pulled the rockets out of the hood, and made a full sheet of aluuuuminuuuum to go from fender to fender and rad. to firewall, with only a hole over the carb. got by for a while till someone, at the big end noticed how the hood 'puffed' up. must have really packed the air in. funny at the time.
Rod in AZ |
Re: 1957 150
My first race car was a '57 150 business coupe with a 283 two barrel. Raced it one year before they outlawed the 4-speeds. The trick of the day for the rear end was to use MoPar side gears in the positraction case and modified MoPar 30 spline axles from 8 3/4 rears. That stopped the axle twisting for me. SS&DI had an article about it.
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Was looking in the NHRA blue print specs for the 1957 Chevrolet engines.Do not see a listing for the acceptable intake manifolds?
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yes, the Chevy [57-64] posi units were the same as MoPar units, with the exception that the Chevy used 17 spline axles [just less than 1" dia.] and the MoPar posi used the larger 30 spline axles. took 4 gears to complete the swap. back in the day, the backing plates were the major hurdle. today, of course, Moser could whip out a set of much better custom axles using all Chevy parts. and yes light weight. years ago I meet a SS racer from BC,Canada who had a red '56 SS/NA with a 2x4 PG with Brake and he actually went back to the Chevy/MoPar rear. he was not easy on it.
Rod in AZ |
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