Mobil 1 oil
anyone using 15-50 Mobil 1 syn oil ?
Thanks Rick |
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I always use Mobil 1 5-20 in the FWD cars. Jim
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We have used it for many years. Only use 15-50 in our bracket stuff. I think
it has a better additive package................... although it is a bit slower than the lighter weigh stuff we use in our Stockers/SS. |
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5w30 Mobil 1 in my engine. Engine looks like new everytime its torn down. Good stuff.
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Ya'll use the Mobil 1 filter also?... what change intervals over the race season?
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I used it about 10 years ago. Then I went to Pennzoil-Valvoline-Royal Purple. Now I use AMSOIL. Been using it 3 years.
Chip Johnson |
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Look at this web site it was just update with the different Blends of Mobil One
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf |
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I just did trip accross that last night myself....................that reads good ...I think...lol
thanks Rick |
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Mobile1 now has zero-20. That and a bottle of Comp break-in additive would be cheaper that a change of Joe Gibbs which has impressed me less than some people.
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but will additive mix with "Mobil 1 oils"
Rick |
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I had problems burning the ends off intake pushrods without the additive. A Stocker would probably not need it. Over 1000 lbs open spring pressure makes show up that normally would not. I've heard of SS guys getting by without it, I never could.
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I use a 1061 NAPA, I think it's made by Wix?
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Not enought EP in oil same thing thats in rear end oil that keeps it from squeezing out when the gears mesh. LakeWood use to sell it in small can 4 or 8 oz
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My understanding is that the high levels Zinc and Phosphourus screw up the cataylic converter. BTW Some where there is a Tech Paper by John Deer out there about thier new Break In in oil
10-30 TY22041 1 gal TY22088 5 gal TY22042 55 gal In Canada TY22057 4 LLiters CXTY22088 20 Liters |
Re: Mobil 1 oil
If you are looking for Mobil-1 with ZDDP package already in it I have been told go to your bike shop and ask for the motor cycle Mobil-1. Kind of hard to find but they can order from their distributors if not stocked. Since bikes don’t have the catalytic convertors it’s still allowed by the EPA to be included and for that matter most other good bike oils still have the friction/ load additives also.
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I just saw the Mobil 1 bike oil @ Wal-Mart 20W-50
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did you see a pice? i need to change oil on the w-glide;) redline is too damn much money... |
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I used to run Moblil 1 in everything and was evein running the 0 w 20. I had a problem a couple of times with rocker balls galling so I switched to the gibbs stuff and I have not had a problem with no other changes.
That was a few years ago. I hear that the Mobil one was still very good for street engines, but they kept making it cheaper and I am certain the zddp reduction is part of it. Anyway, I looked at my total spend on oil each year and decided it was better to stick with something that worked for me even if it is more $$$. That was a few years ago. I am pretty happy with the decision. Doesn't mean it won't work for you, in my case, it was a problem with stock rockers and the oil pump set up I run. |
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It was not to make it cheaper, it is a EPA thing too much zinc &
phosphor damages the cat converter. Read the link in the thread that. I posted on the Mobil one sites withe the blends[ QUOTE=james schaechter;269482]I used to run Moblil 1 in everything and was evein running the 0 w 20. I had a problem a couple of times with rocker balls galling so I switched to the gibbs stuff and I have not had a problem with no other changes. That was a few years ago. I hear that the Mobil one was still very good for street engines, but they kept making it cheaper and I am certain the zddp reduction is part of it. Anyway, I looked at my total spend on oil each year and decided it was better to stick with something that worked for me even if it is more $$$. That was a few years ago. I am pretty happy with the decision. Doesn't mean it won't work for you, in my case, it was a problem with stock rockers and the oil pump set up I run.[/QUOTE] |
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You have to keep up with the ever-changing formulations and find info that is current. Amsoil has a wide variety of oils with considerable high pressure additives. I use their Dominator 5w-20 with excellent results.
Amsoil options: http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbu...t%20tappet.pdf |
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We used Mobil 1 15w50 in our bracket BB Mopar as recommended by original engine builder, (Nick Wilson). After a year & half of racing developed an oil pan gasket leak, dropped pan & found sludgy goo in bottom of pan. I asked around & after many calls to various oil companies & engine builders I put Pennzoil 15w50 platinum in, ran another year & half to rebuild time, pulled engine, disassambled & found no sludgy goo!!! Engine oil was always changed with WIX racing filter after 20 to 25 runs. One oil engineer claimed Mobil 1 wasn't holding contaminants long enough for filter to contain them. I don't really know why, I just know there is no sludgy goo in engine now.
Steve Reynolds |
Re: Mobil 1 oil
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Sorry, I should have clarified for you Blue Oval. My reference about Mobil 1 being made cheaper was not a response to your link at all. It was a comment made to me from a friend who is an oil engineer and not a racer. I asked him about Mobil one several years ago. ( prior to the zddp thing too) He said that when Mobil 1 started pushing the higher volume sales through chains like Walmart, there was pressure to keep the cost down while maintaining the quality. He told me it was over engineered for it's application, so there was no real down side for street use at the time. I just figured it was finally pushing it for my application. Results will vary. LOL. |
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The postig on their site with different blends is very interesting when you get to the Porsche and Harley blends with all the addiatives they require,Mobil updates this site every year. They just updated 07-05-11
QUOTE=james schaechter;269530][/QUOTE] Sorry, I should have clarified for you Blue Oval. My reference about Mobil 1 being made cheaper was not a response to your link at all. It was a comment made to me from a friend who is an oil engineer and not a racer. I asked him about Mobil one several years ago. ( prior to the zddp thing too) He said that when Mobil 1 started pushing the higher volume sales through chains like Walmart, there was pressure to keep the cost down while maintaining the quality. He told me it was over engineered for it's application, so there was no real down side for street use at the time. I just figured it was finally pushing it for my application. Results will vary. LOL.[/QUOTE] |
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Jim S. I agree with you completely regarding Mobil’s attempts to mass market by reducing the additive package. I too was also told by one of our lubricating consultants that the additives are where the real cost is and Mobil has experimented to reduce in an attempt to get the price down. This is supported he said by the numerous versions/ formulas they have offered for Mobil-1 over the last 10 years; new improved, special formula, etc. He also stated at one time Corvette, Porsche, Ferrari was considering taking them off the recommended list but they reformulated back up to meet their requirements.
Based on our testing the best buy for racing oil presently is the Brad Penn, old Kendal stuff. It can be a little hard to get and they don’t have a wide offering of viscosities but dollar per ounce of lubrication it’s hard to beat. If your oil works then don't change , however be aware that the formula my change over time in this highly compatative market so if you start having issues don't rule the oil out. My 2 cents |
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Question....
Why not use the oil of choice (in this case Mobil 1) with an additive that contains the zinc and other materials that the epa has forced the manufacturers to take out. I know Lucas makes it in a 16 oz bottle, as do others. Just asking, 'cause I KNOW there are many on here that have researched thoroughly. Unk PS, Jim, isn't it time for some BBQ???? |
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Maybe so but the reason for the Porsche blend is their engines are direct acting,same as a flat tappet not a roller follower. Bob if you look at the website you will see that Mobil has ols with the correct additive package. As a side note I was in a meeting with 3 Lube Engineers from 1 of the big three Friday and they told me. That current oils are just fine for the older flat tappet engines. BTW there is about 35 page report out there that states the porsfus? ( spelling) will attach DLC coatings and make them flake
QUOTE=Jim Parsons;269573]Jim S. I agree with you completely regarding Mobil’s attempts to mass market by reducing the additive package. I too was also told by one of our lubricating consultants that the additives are where the real cost is and Mobil has experimented to reduce in an attempt to get the price down. This is supported he said by the numerous versions/ formulas they have offered for Mobil-1 over the last 10 years; new improved, special formula, etc. He also stated at one time Corvette, Porsche, Ferrari was considering taking them off the recommended list but they reformulated back up to meet their requirements. Based on our testing the best buy for racing oil presently is the Brad Penn, old Kendal stuff. It can be a little hard to get and they don’t have a wide offering of viscosities but dollar per ounce of lubrication it’s hard to beat. If your oil works then don't change , however be aware that the formula my change over time in this highly compatative market so if you start having issues don't rule the oil out. My 2 cents[/QUOTE] |
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Rotella 15w-40 is in our work trucks, dozer and cars for years with no problems. Has heavy duty diesel and gas rated additive package and Harley recommends this kind of oil if bike oil unavailable. It is available it synthetic now and wally-world has it. Mobil 1 , Napa gold or Wix, or AC filters. Norris
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Just because an additive is packaged and labeled does not mean it is compatible with all oils. Differences in base stocks, and various additive packages, especially detergent packages, could prevent your additive from being effective, and or reduce the effectiveness of the additive package in the oil itself. Further, the additive may never even effectively blend with the oil, and thus be completely useless, and have no effect at all. While I'm not at all convinced we need to be spending $16 for a quart of oil, or that we're getting our money's worth when we do, I'm even less convinced that there are many, if any, lubrication engineers among us, who should be blending our our oil packages. |
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Alan,
Interesting comments and, I'll admit, certainly not an avenue that I had thought of. Appreciate the input, thank you! Unk |
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Alan has hit the nail on the head.
There is also another issue with some additives: oil filter. Is it compatible with the enzimes that hold the paper in your oil filter together or does the paper filter it all out? Quite a few years ago, As a Dodge diesel owner, I got a warning about using Fram filters. Seems the enzimes in the filter didn't like the diesel fuel mixed with the oil and the paper would come apart and stop up the jets that spray oil in the piston/cyl wall. Sometimes my customers ask me if I like XXXX added to the oil. When I have no experience with XXXX I ask them if they have ever mixed it with the oil they use and see if it settles out or will stay mixed. Or I ask: is that the stuff I found sticking to the bottom of your oil pan? I always suggest pouring any additive into a partial bottle of oil and mixing before adding it to the engine. I sell a bottle of Comp with each FT engine and suggest it be mixed with a partial qt. of oil and added just before starting the engine. |
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Surely nobody would just dump a bottle of additive in by it's self.
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Ed---I normally sit on the side lines and dont post, but this one I could not resist. You will be surprised at how many people will put the additive in after the motor has been started and run or running. Instructions mean very little. You should watch these same people put their kids toys together at Christmas.
Also for a further comment. I had used Mobil One for several years as it was really the first synthetic to really be made for the public and it really did work nicely. But as they worked feverishly to remove ZDDP and all other anti scuff materials, we saw problems on the dyno and in customers race engines. So we had to look for alternatives. I tried several but the Joe Gibbs seem to work better than most we had tried and with 400+ across the nose on a stocker cam, it scared me not to look. One day I had an engine on the dyno and Lake Speed Jr(who runs Joe Gibbs Oil) called me and we was talking and I asked what additive I could add to the oil and give me better insurance. His comment back to me and I will never forget it was " are you a F___king chemist and know more than we do. If it needed any thing more to be added to the oil, I would already have done it" Needless to say I have not asked any more questions to him since then. He and his representative came buy a few months back and I surely did not ask any more stupid question. But one thing I can add to the converstion, there are some additive out there that will "blind" a filter and totaly make it ineffective as a filtering agent. I also have seen additives separate out from certain oils. There is know way that you can have an additive and it be compatible with ALL oils. Let the oil people do their job and pay what ever you need to to use their knowledge and spend your time and resources on things you can do something about reed |
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I may just be lucky, but for a long time I used Mobile1 and Comp's additive. No sludge, no filter problems. I know others doing it too. I mix 1/2 bottle with 1/2 quart of oil also.
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Ed---There is no doubt that many combinations will work and every one to their own. What I am saying is that I do not have the time to develop what my customers need. I must purchase what some else has put their time into and they have far more expertise than I do. There is no doubt that there are MANY combinations that will work. But I know there are several that does not work. I just cannot afford to gamble with my customers on my "magic" potent 109". After they leave here, then they have all the right in the world to make any changes they deem fit. Also if I do have a problem I have an expert to call and run those ideas around in their group. A group thinking, in most cases, will arrive at a better solution than one individual. g,day sirs
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Well I guess I chime back in, When I spoke with Mobil about their, the 15-50 M1 (silver/grey top) and the zinc/phos levels. I asked about using an additive, and the guy kinda snapped at me with a "don't use additives"...........so what ever thats worth ??
Rick |
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reed |
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I use Valvoline Non Synthetic oils such as VR1 and NSL oils. As to Synthetic I have used Royal Purple.
As of late last year, I have been involved in 4-5 circle track engines, which the blocks were filled with Hardblok so my first thing was it has to have an oil cooler. Well, With the oils they were running it was not needed and you would be surprised who's bottles they fill (Some in this thread) http://www.schaefferoil.com/ |
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