Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

You know I've heard this before... I don't know if you have to tell them you want stops when you order the shifter or what. But I wouldn't use one without. Call Long and tell them you want stops on your shifter and see what they say. They might tell you to send your old one in and $100 with it for the upgraded shifter. I don't know but I wouldn't go banging gears without shifter stops or you are just asking for problems.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

For what its worth, neither of my Long shifters have any stops, the Jerico in my 10.0ET bracket car has been in there for 12 years, and in that time, the only part of the trans I have ever broke was 3rd gear (once). The other Jerico has been in my Stocker Mustang for 6 years, and has hurt nothing. I`m not saying that I don`t think shifter sstops are a good idea, but not having them hasn`t caused me any issues.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I started doing burnouts in 2nd gear a couple of years ago after a problem with 3rd lasting 50-60 runs and breaking. 3rd gear lasts a lot longer now. I put 300+ runs on my jerico last year.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I heard about this on another forum and it had me worried as I always used third in my toploader so I asked Jerico and I got third gear is fine for the burnout answer.

I am just a bracket racer but I don't believe second would be enough tire speed and I think my soft loc would not be happy with fourth?

Maybe some others can chime in as this is a great subject. Brian

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I've always done my burnout in 3rd and use a 3-step which is also supposed to be a no-no. That was in both Stock & SS/H. I think the wheel speed will be too slow using 2nd gear for a burnout.
I've been racing since 1998 on the same Jerico trans. I have changed ratio's a few times (even 3rd gear) and I've never seen one problem inside the case. True, my racing is inconsistant from year to year but when I am racing, it's hundreds of runs in a year.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I used to do my burnout in 2nd but there was not enough tire speed so I am going with third. Scott at Jerico said it would be OK and I know someone who has done it for years and has never had problems.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

No stops on my Long Shifter and 3rd gear burnouts with the Jerico. Neither has been a problem in 7 seasons of use. Clutch is another story if you don't have enough base or RPM to lock it up in the box.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

Yeah I know some or now most don't. I just don't have that kind of luck so I try to take as much precautions as possible on things.

As far as the third gear burnouts. I think as long as you don't let the tires grab and put a lot of stress on everything it should help. Its the same principle with trying to keep excessive heat out of the clutch. As the car walks out of the water stab the clutch before the tires really grab. I know its easier said than does every time but its probably the best way to keep third gear and the clutch happy. Just my .02

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I typically do a 3rd gear burnout, but i feel 3rd is the weakest link and if you are on the edge as far as what a jerico can handle, it can be a problem. Iguess I felt that way since the main and the input come together there and there are no handcuffs or additional support. When we ran ssbs with a 3000lb car and a 316, 3rd was the one we would break. Clutches are better now, so maybe not an issue. In the stockers, I don't see an issue with it. When the track is really hot anyway and i am just cleaning the tires off, Iwill use 2nd gear at times for a burnout. The biggest problem i have seen over the years is from racers shifting a jerico in the waterbox. Ihave purchesed a half dozen basket cases from racers that thought this was a good process and the trans split in half. I would say pick a gear and make sure the rpm is matched to the clutch to shock the tires enough so you don't slip the clutch in the burnout process.

As far as the shift arm and shifter. Irun a stock length long shifter and the long shifter arms. I think running the long nascar type shifter arms and the "long" (2 inches taller) long shifter could be the issue. Iwould try going to stock length shift arms. You will have plenty of leverage with either the 2 inch taller shifter or the longer nascar type shift arms. It would be an easy test and inexpensive.

Ihave had probably a dozen different jericos. I only had one shifter with stops on it. It might be a good idea, but with a good internal shift rail trans, not necessary if you have it set up right. I have had a gforce 5 speed and it had shift stops on it.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I think the way a Long shifter works means no stops are required. If you look at the mechanism the pin rolls through the gates and can only go so far until it hits the end. That is your stop. As long as the shift rods are adjusted correctly it shouldn't over stress the trans.

I bought my trans and shifter together and it was already setup and I haven't touched it in 8 years. I leave the rods on the shifter and unbolt the arms from the trans when it comes out so the rod adjustment never changes. The lever breakage sounds like a shift rod is out of adjustment to me.