Re: 402 stocker engine
 

Do you know what brand and material the sleeves are ?? curious -- thanks

Re: 402 stocker engine
 

Jim, what are the leakage numbers cold and hot? -Al

Re: 402 stocker engine
 

Bob they are cast iron. Have used them several times with no problem.

Re: 402 stocker engine
 

1 :7.5;3:7 5:4.5 7;6.2%. 2;5 4;8.5 6;8.5 8:5 %. Cold. H 1:5.25 3;4.25 5: 4. 7: 4.25. 2 3.25 4:4.75 6:4 8:4 %

Re: 402 stocker engine
 

Henry the pistons are new lands are good,this is the second set of pistons had the same results. Here in South Dakota the dynos are few and far.

Re: 402 stocker engine
 

Not having smoke from the headers simply means there's not a lot of oil getting into the combustion chamber, by the oil rings or the valve stem seals.


Smoke from the valve covers is a sign of blow by, or oil temperature problems. Blow by will actually blow the oil ring out against the cylinder walls, and stop oil from getting by. With good quality modern rings, odds are your problem is the hone, or what you're doing to assemble the engine.


Call Keith or Kevin at Total Seal.


The proper way to test cylinder seal is with a blow by meter on the dyno, with a Dwyer guage, there's no real substitute There's a video on youtube, by Lake Speed Jr.

Re: 402 stocker engine
 

Alan -- what are you thoughts or results on using sleeves in BB blocks ??

Re: 402 stocker engine
 

Not sure if anyone else ask this. Do you know the tension on oil ring?
The other would be seating the rings. Either on a dyno if in car then maybe get brake pressure as high as you can and run motor in gear as high as you can. If unable to hold in 1st gear try second gear. I had trans brake on my super stocker and it worked well on rebuild. Don't forget to remove rpm chip. Hopefully carb is not leaking when sitting and washing out cylinders.

Re: 402 stocker engine
 

Good morning to all,
I was catching up here this morning and that suggestion is a good catch. I was about to say if the engine is broken in properly, that the problem could be "deeper" meaning you'll have to scrutinize all the parts much more closely. I did have a problem recently where the way the Mfg. cut the Second ring stack, the cutter let a burr on the back side of the ring - causing it to stick in the ring land. The engine wouldn't seal and did smoke. I'm not saying this is your problem, but I'm stating that going over all the piece's in the " system" need to be inspected. Had another situation with rings where they " micro welded " themselves in the top ring land causing the top ring to not seal. I'm bring up examples so you can take your engine apart and " inspect " each part. Without the parts in front of me its a little difficult to see for myself.
Keep looking - I'm sure you'll see the problem.

Respectfully,
Henry Kunz 1534 H/SA

Re: 402 stocker engine
 

We have had good luck. However, to be very clear, we use flanged diesel sleeves. I won't use a non flanged sleeve anymore, for anything. Flanged sleeves are a royal pain, especially if your block is already "finished", and you don't want to deck it much, if any. But properly installed flanged sleeves do not move, and do not distort. Also, a good quality sleeve is better material than a production block. Combine a quality sleeve with the modern diamond hone process as prescribed by guys like Keith Jones and Lake Speed Jr., at Total Seal, and you have the best possible cylinder.