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-   -   Lower & Upper roller control arm bushings (https://classracer.com/classforum/showthread.php?t=56404)

Ed Wright 01-20-2015 09:30 PM

Re: Lower & Upper roller control arm bushings
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Diehl (Post 458751)
This is a good post here....its all about precise control, that roller bushings give you,if you take the time to do it right, and...its what you need for $1200 dollar shocks. If you are using rubber you don't need $1200 dollar shocks.


Now, somebody will say they did this with that, but the fact of the matter is, its precision control you are after...otherwise prostocks wouldn't be blowing 18 grand on rear shocks


It all boils down too....what "level" do you want to take your project

Bill, you might think about putting an IMHO in front of some of those statements. :-)

Bill Diehl 01-22-2015 08:25 AM

Re: Lower & Upper roller control arm bushings
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed Wright (Post 459168)
Bill, you might think about putting an IMHO in front of some of those statements. :-)

Yes, Ed you are correct... just my 2 cents or opinion and not directed towards anybody.

jack arnew 01-22-2015 10:56 PM

Re: Lower & Upper roller control arm bushings
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Run to Rund (Post 458740)
I have installed the solid bushings in the lower arms; they have an inner and outer part. Often the holes in the arms aren't in perfect alignment and you have to use a die grinder to open the holes in the arms to get them perfect, using a 1/2" rod through the steel bushings to check. Then you have to weld the outer sleeves to the arms, and re-check. Plan on taking 1-2 days to get it right. Hence Jack Arnew's recommendation to use rubber bushings because they will deflect to compensate for poor alignment of the holes in the factory A arms.


I have seen this method used with very good results,but found it easer to adjust the holes in the cross member and then weld thick washers to support the now realighned bushings. More often than not I would cut the control arm to get the adjustment needed and then alighn the bushing hole before rewelding. This method was adapted to upper and lower arms that were not produced with a cross shaft cross shaft. Alightment was not a problen with or without roller bushings as I had my own jigs for arns not using a shaft


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