Re: looking to lower rear of 1970 Chevelle
 

chassis is good. arms, I only have 1 pair, no spares. What I have learned is the new arms lower spring pocket keeps the spring more square with the upper frame pocket. I always have to cut the lowers to get correct hight with 1/2 coil off pass side to keep level.
The factory arms are angled toward the outside of car. I can see it on my buick n chevelle. One other thing I apoligize for not mentioning is the bump stop under my upper control arms are cut in half. My car has never been quite as low as yours in the front. Did you use full bump stops on top or any other limiting device. My kowers appear to go lower then yours in the pic, you can see the curve in my morosos, and they are up against the shock in my pic, with rub marks on them.

Re: looking to lower rear of 1970 Chevelle
 

I used moroso rear trick springs im my malibu and it lowered it alot over the factory coils. And there is a left and a right coil (one is stiffer than the other) Car still sits level too. Check out moroso PN:47500

Heres a link to the site :

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?CatCode=26002

I put air bags in mine just to adjust ride height....5 psi in the bags rase my car 3/4 of an inch. Hope this helps

Re: looking to lower rear of 1970 Chevelle
 

chris, the rubber snubbers, both under the upper as well on the lower A Arms have not been cut and are the stock/GM rubber units as well my coil springs are exactly the same free height as the moroso trick springs.

Again, if your bending springs and breaking shocks there is a reason why and it ain't the factory a arms or springs that are the reason.

Re: looking to lower rear of 1970 Chevelle
 

Gentlemen thank you so much. Ed I've always had to cut springs to get car to correct ride heights.
I think that is a big culpret. I put my stock arms next to my tubular ones and there was a huge difference in angling of how the coil will sit in the lower spring pocket. the shocks never broke in half or anything, just rubbing and adjuster failed in the koni. still worked as a shock tho. calverts are much fatter and were left with nice scrub mark.
I will reinspect next week.
I've had the chassis straightened by Super Dad in North Babylon. He is one of the best out there, and car went straight as an arrow after.
If you look at angles of spring pockets, they never fully allign on same plain to be parallel top and bottom.
I consider myself a super pro replacing them now. lol.

I think there is a large difference between the cut up morosos to factory ones which you used. which were discontinued eons ago. I remember when you first gave me the part number and I could not find them . I bought more morosos. more cutting.
It really is something you need to see close up. I need to take some pics. I will next week as I will not be touching cars this week.
I truly appreciate yours and everyones help.
Chris.
I think a big problem I caused was cutting the snubbers down so far. should have left stock and found a better spring, but that was a long time ago I did it.

Re: looking to lower rear of 1970 Chevelle
 

Chris, just to be clear, the Moog springs that I installed in my Chevelle over a decade ago are not "factory" replacement springs for a Chevelle.. What I did was take the Moroso trick spring's specs and found a Moog spring that matched all the specs except rated load as the trick springs were rated for 1800+ lbs. and my nose weight was nearly 2300 lbs. The Moog spring I chose is a heavier wire diameter, .61, rated for 2100 lbs. but the free height and loaded height are virutally identical, so the Chevelle's nose is 10% undersprung.

As to your Calvert shocks rubbing the inside of the coil spring, the fix is to move the lower A arm shock mounting holes outward 1/2", same as required to install Afcos.