Re: Best tire for stick car..
 

Goodyear 1909 on 10'' wheels

Re: Best tire for stick car..
 

All the M/T tires require tubes, are people running them without?

Re: Best tire for stick car..
 

9/29.5 M/T no tubes
Use dawn dish soap and coat the sidewalls,very little or no leakage

Re: Best tire for stick car..
 

i dont run them in mine, and few others as well..

Re: Best tire for stick car..
 

Hoosier 30x9x15, D07 compound, metal valve stems, No tubes, no screws, no dish soap, no leaks. Sandblasted bead surfaces of wheels.

Re: Best tire for stick car..
 

No tubes in any of the M/T tires we run.
My car I run 10lbs and Dad's Chevy II we run 11-12 lbs.

Re: Best tire for stick car..
 

I just picked up a set of M/T 10.5/29.5S so I am going to try them out. I have been using Phoenix 13/31 at 9.7lbs of air and after a few front end changes (stock spring and rollerized perches and control arms) I got my 60' time down from 1.51 to 1.46 but I still think I should be around 1.40-1.43 zone. Still can't get this damn thing to wheel stand though! Any suggestions?

Re: Best tire for stick car..
 

what rear shocks? front shocks? can you move some weight around?

Re: Best tire for stick car..
 

QA1 double adjustable shocks up front, extension set to 0, compression set to 15 clicks (out of about 24 I believe). The rear has QA1 Coilover but single adjustable, I have them set in the middle. The rear spring is 125lb. Ladder bar setup with the front in the bottom hole (for weight transfer they tell me). The car is about 55% front 45% rear weight distribution and has been clocking in at 2960 with me in the car. 8000rpm launch with 3.25 first gear. Anything else just let me know.

Re: Best tire for stick car..
 

Any weight bars? If so, high and to the rear. As high and as far back as possible. If you don'y have ballast, find a way.
Not to rub salt but obviously Kip Martin can stand his '64.5 Mustang 289/225 up pretty darn high so no reason you shouldn't. He also has a ladder bar suspension.
FYI - Ladder bars hit the rear slicks harder on the upper holes. I would move the bars up and only when I got the front end to react violently would I work on lowering the bars. You should have around 4 degrees nose down pinion angle with a ladder bar. Personally I think it should be a minimum of -4 degrees; -6 degrees may not be optimum but -2 degrees could be a problem.
Speaking from experience, QA1's on zero for rebound is still too stiff in my opinion; especially on a low torque engine like yours. On the cheap, get a pair of Calvert front shocks from Alex Denysenko. On the big dollar side there are many options. I have AFCO's & I recently re-valved the front rebound to be stiffer than the standard rebound (as I would have a lot more torque with my extra 100 cubic inches).
What is the rate on your rear coil springs? They should be light enough to hold the back of the car up with some pre-load on the springs. If they do not require pre-load, they're too heavy and the springs and shocks will not operate effectively.
You should have an aluminum drive shaft and your rear wheels and tires should be lite-weight items. The lighter the better on those little engines!

I just noticed you said you have 125# coil springs. That may be adequate but still if you have no pre-load then they're too heavy.